Natural Fibers

Angora Rabbit Fiber:

The soft hair of an Angora rabbit. Used with other fibers it provides a soft hand and a comfortable “fluffy” look.

Bamboo:

Bamboo is a cellulosic fiber, i.e. made from wood that uses many chemicals to soften the fiber sufficiently in a very toxic process that is actually very harmful to the environment. Wigwam does not make bamboo socks for this reason.

Cocona:

Fiber made from the activated carbon of recycled coconut shells. Cocona utilizes natural technology that is effective in providing cooling, odor absorption, and UV protection properties.

Combed Cotton:

A cotton fiber that goes through an additional “combing” process so that more of the shorter fibers are removed. This improves the softness and strength of the cotton fiber.

Cotton®:

A lightweight, moisture absorbing fiber. No other fabric offers the comfort and the feel of nature’s own fiber. It’s breathable, washable, and biodegradable.

Elastic:

A rubber or spandex (synthetic elastic) that provides extreme stretch and recovery. It is usually wrapped with a man-made filament yarn in order to provide consistency in its stretch and recovery.

Mercerized Cotton:

A cotton yarn that is put through an additional finishing process (mercerizing) to provide great luster and softness to the yarn and to intensify dyed colors.

Merino Wool:

A special, fine grade of wool that originally came from Merino sheep. It shares all of the characteristics classic to wool, but what makes Merino wool different is the luxurious softness and comfort provided by its finer diameter as contrasted to larger diameter fibers. Unlike coarser grades of wool, Merino wool is much less prone to itching.

Mohair:

The long, soft silky hair of the Angora goat. It is 2-times stronger than wool and dyes more easily that any other specialty hair fiber.

Organic Cotton:

Cotton that is grown without the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides from plants that are not genetically modified. Also see definition for Cotton.

Rayon:

A natural cellulose filament fiber known for its sheen, its soft hand and its high moisture absorption properties.

Ring Spun Carded Cotton:

A cotton yarn with good durability and hand (feel); however it is not combed to remove the shorter fibers.

Silk:

A very smooth, soft fiber. It boasts a high tensile strength and acts as a natural thermal retainer that does not conduct heat. It is naturally antimicrobial and odor reducing. It is the only continuous filament fiber that is naturally generated by a silk worm.

Wool:

The original, easy care fiber. The crimp in the wool fiber causes it to act like a tiny spring, but coils back to its original position. It features inherent qualities such as wrinkle resistance, colorfastness, shape recovery (resilience) and it breathes with your body. It can be knit in various weights to provide increasing levels of insulation for every temperature. Wool yarn, when knit into a thicker sock, tends to be bulky and lofty. Air becomes entrapped and it becomes an ideal insulator. Wools socks also keep feet drier because wool absorbs as much as 30% of its own weight in moisture before it begins to feel damp.

Woolen Spun:

The process of spinning wool with fibers that are 1.5” to 3” long. Since the fibers are relatively short they are randomly aligned and the resultant yarn has more loft and bulk than worsted yarn.

Worsted Wool:

A wool yarn spun under the Worsted system. This type of spinning aligns longer 3.5” to 5” fibers parallel to each other to provide extreme strength and durability.

 
Wigwam Technical Fiber Blends

Wonder-Wick®:

The Wonder-Wick® Moisture Control System was developed by Wigwam Mills to keep your feet warm, dry and comfortable. A moisture-repelling yarn next to the skin wicks the perspiration away from the foot. A moisture-absorbing fiber on the outside of the sock works with the inner fiber to ensure that moisture stays away from the foot. A dry foot is warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. The lack of moisture next to the foot is also instrumental in minimizing blisters.

 
Technical Fibers

4-Channel Polyester:

A generic term for a high-performance, four-channel fiber engineered to move moisture and speed the evaporation of perspiration. It is a superior fabric for wicking action, drying time and moisture transport.

Coolmax®:

A high-performance, four-channel fiber engineered to move moisture and speed the evaporation of perspiration. It is a superior fabric for wicking action, drying time, moisture absorption and transport.

Dri-release®:

Dri-release® is a patented technology utilizing an intimate engineered blend of moisture absorbing and moisture repelling fibers. The moisture absorbing fibers pull moisture through the fabric while the moisture repelling fibers push the moisture to the surface of the garment where it can evaporate quickly as airflow moves across the fabric.

Gore-Tex®:

A windproof, waterproof, breathable membrane. Microscopic pores in the membrane are small enough to prevent liquid water from penetrating, but are large enough to allow water vapor to pass through for breathability. It is a non-woven and knitted fabric.

Hollofil® Polyester:

Hollofil® Polyester fiber is a hollow fiber. Hollow core fibers trap air to provide warmth and loft. Combines with other fibers, it creates a lightweight, thermally superior sock.

Lycra®:

Invista’s brand name for its spandex stretch fiber.

Outlast®:

Outlast® is a PCM or Phase Change Material that is combined with acrylic fibers or viscose rayon fibers. The PCM is able to absorb extra heat generated by the human body when it is too warm and releases heat from the human body when it is too cold. Thus it serves as a temperature regulating material. Ideal for use in socks where the person wearing them is engaged in active pursuits. Its properties also reduce perspiration.

Thermax (CM) Polyester:

Hollow core polyester fibers that prevent heat loss by trapping a layer of warm air around the foot while transporting perspiration to the outer layer of moisture absorbing fabric. It offers great softness and wicking ability.

Thermolite® Polyester:

A lightweight fiber providing breathability and warmth while moving moisture from the body by combining a thermally-efficient polymer and micro-tested hollow core fibers that heat up quickly and retain warmth.

Thinsulate®:

An insulating fiber from 3M® that is breathable, durable and is able to retain most of its insulating qualities even in damp conditions. It is not able to be used for knitting.

X2O® Acrylic:

An advanced moisture-absorbing acrylic fiber containing micropores that have a capillary capacity to absorb moisture, and then dissipate it by evaporation. It is one of the only moisture-absorbing acrylic fibers on the market. Although it is a lightweight fiber, it has superior insulation qualities and has antimicrobial properties as a result of the fact that the fiber contains chitosan which is the natural material found in the shells of crabs and prawns. One of the remarkable characteristics of chitosan is its anti-bacterial and anti-mold characteristics.

X-Static® Silver Nylon:

is a layer of pure silver that is permanently bonded to the surface of nylon fibers. It is naturally antimicrobial and neutralizes denatured proteins; two principle causes of odor in footwear. X-Static® also delivers unparalleled thermodynamic properties, helping to maintain warmth in the winter and coolness in the summer. X-Static® is also anti-static and if utilized in sufficient quantity prevents the growth of bacteria and thus can prevent infections.

 
Man-Made Fibers

Acrylic Blend®:

A man-made fiber that provides softness and warmth with little weight and high durability. Acrylic’s inherent properties allow it to hold brighter and more brilliant colors than its natural fiber counterparts.

Micro-Denier Acrylic:

Acrylic yarn made up of filament fibers measuring in diameter less than 1 denier per filament. The small denier of the filament allows the yarn to have an extremely soft hand.

Nylon:

A very strong, versatile, hard wearing fiber. Socks made of nylon can be thin and silky or bulky and highly elastic. Nylon is often used with other fibers to give added stretch or to improve durability. Introduced by Dupont in 1939.

Olefin / Polypropylene:

A superior water repelling fiber that won’t accept moisture. It is used alone or with absorbent outer layers that work together to wick moisture away from your body. It is very strong, and has the lowest specific gravity (lightest) of any man-made fiber. It is also stain resistant and colorfast. The company that developed this fiber won the Nobel Prize.

Polyester & Stretch Polyester:

Two hydrophobic (water repelling) fibers that are known for their durability and are extremely colorfast for vivid coloration.

Spandex:

A man-made fiber with elastic properties that is often used in place of rubber. Used with other fibers, it provides elasticity, recovery and close fit, primarily in the legs of socks to hold them in place and in the arch and ankle to provide extra support.

Stretch Nylon:

Continuous nylon filaments that are crimped and heat set to provide elasticity. Due to the relatively high level of elasticity imparted to nylon after it is crimped and heat set, it is very commonly utilized to make stretch socks in combination with other yarns.

 
Toe Closure Methods

When all of Wigwam’s hosiery is knit, the toes are “reciprocated” like a heel pocket to provide a strong and comfortable toe pocket. The open toe pocket then needs to be closed using one of five different methods. They are a Conventional Toe Seam performed on a sewing machine, a Very Smooth Toe Seam performed on a special machine, Extra-Smooth Reverso Toe Closure where the seam is on the outside of the sock, the Seamless Lin-Toe Closure or Seamless Classic Linking Toe Closure. The method chosen to close the toe on a particular sock is based on the weight and gauge of the knit material, the fibers and construction used and the type of machine that it is knit on.

Conventional Toe Seam:

Conventional toe seaming is the traditional way that toe pockets have been closed for many years in manufacturing socks. In this method the sock is turned inside out and the toe pocket is sewn closed, then returned to its proper form. This type of toe closure leaves a smooth “finished” appearance on the exterior or the sock, but also leaves a slight ridge on the interior of the sock.

Extra-Smooth Reverso Toe Closure:

The Reverso toe closure is done the same way as a smooth looped toe seam, except that the sock is not turned inside out before closing the toe. Although this method leaves a slightly raised seam on the outside of the sock, it provides an extra-smooth surface on the inside where it contacts the foot.

Low Profile Toe Closure:

This type of toe closure is also known as a machine looped toe seam performed on a Complett machine. In this method of toe closing, the end of the knit fabric is run slightly thinner, then this light “run off” is the loop stitched closed. This method allows for less material bulk to be caught within the seam, allows for a straighter seam and allows the seam to lie much flatter inside of the sock.

Seamless Classic Linking Toe Closure:

A closure that is stitched loop-for-loop on the knitting machine that produces a seamless closure on the inside and outside of the sock fabric.

Virtually Seamless Lin-Toe Closure:

The Lin-Toe closure method aligns the knit loops on the opposing edges of circular knit fabric, and then uses a single thread to join the fabric edges loop-for-loop to create a single piece of knit fabric. The closure is seamless inside the sock and although seamless on the outside has a slight ridge.

 
General Glossary

Moisture Wicking:

See wicking.

Neckwarmer:

A circular knit tube to be worn around the neck.

Odor Guard:

An antimicrobial treatment that protects the sock against bacteria which cause foot odor and athlete’s foot. Odor Guard is guaranteed to fight odor, and is built to last.

Sized Socks:

A sock knit to a number of specific sizes (not size ranges) that correlates (although not directly) with a person’s shoe size. Socks sized in this manner are sized by numbers, ranging from 9 to 14. Each number represents a defined number of inches in a specified manner of measuring the foot of the sock. Although it is today almost unheard of, socks at one time were made in half sizes. Rarely are socks available today in discrete sizes.

Stretch Sock:

A sock knit, in part, with yarns that have the ability to stretch and recover. This enables the sock to fit a range of foot sizes. Following are the ranges of stretch sizes that Wigwam customarily utilizes:
YS       5-6
YM       6-7
YL        7-9
YX        8-9½
SM       7-9
MS       8-9½
MD       9-11
LG        11-13
XL         13-15
XXL       15-17

Wicking, or Moisture-Wicking:

The ability of a yarn or fabric to transport moisture away from the skin.

 
Sock Lengths

Boot Length:

A typical length of a sock that falls higher than the tops of taller outdoor and hiking boots, typically 12” to 13” in height, although they can be as long as 14” to 15” (Tall Boot Length) or as short as 11” (Shorter Boot-Top Length).

Crew Length:

A sock that extends beyond ankle length, but not beyond the largest part of the calf. Typically 9” to 12” in length.

Low-Cut:

A short length sock that falls below the ankle bone. Usually 3” to 4” in length.

No-Show:

An ultra low-cut sock. Similar to a low-cut, but typically less than 3” in length. Ideally, it is cut low enough that it is totally hidden from view when worn inside footwear.

Over-the-Calf Length:

A sock that extends above the largest part of the calf. Typically 15” or longer.

Push-Down Length:

A mid calf length, typically around 14” to allow for the sock to be pushed down or “slouched” to give a bunched look to the fabric above the ankle.

Quarter Length:

A short crew sock, similar in length to a mid-crew sock. Typically 4” to 7” in length.

Tube Sock:

A sock that is knit in the shape of a tube, having no knit-in heel pocket.

 
Sock Anatomy

“Y” Heel Pocket: :

A method of knitting an extended heel pocket to create an anatomically correct fit.

Achilles Cradle:

A dense reinforced cushion that appears above the heel on the back of the leg to cushion and protect the Achilles tendon area and to reduce fabric wear in that area.

Cuff: :

The cuff is important to the appearance of a sock and its functionality. A welt-cuff is a double layer of knit fabric at the top of the leg. A conventional cuff is knit with a single layer of fabric from the top down. You can see where the knitting of the conventional cuff starts since there is a short tail of yarn.

Fitted Heel and Toe:

A sock that has a knit-in or “true” heel pocket and a reciprocated (knit-in) toe pocket for a better, more natural fit. Most socks are made in this manner today.

Heel Gore:

When the heel is formed the line that runs diagonally through the heel is formed by stitches in the sock that are knit and other stitches that are held in position where knitting doesn’t occur. This line is called the heel gore or gore line. Socks having a “Y” shaped gore line tend to fit better than the standard single gore. It is also important to note that the heel is the portion of the socks subject to the greatest amount of abrasion that is caused by rubbing against the interior of the heel of the shoe. For this reason heels are often reinforced with an extra end of yarn and/or abrasion resistant yarns.

High Heel Splice:

An area of knit fabric reinforcement that falls above the heel pocket, and typically rises above the top of the shoe.

Jersey Instep:

A band of jersey fabric that crosses the top of the foot between the leg and instep (just opposite of the heel gore) to reduce the fabric volume and provide a better fit.

Mock Rib Leg:

The appearance of a true rib, achieved in jersey fabric by using elastic.

Morpul Leg or Top:

The appearance of a true rib in jersey fabric, but having extreme elasticity.

Reinforced (Ankle, Heel, or Toe):

To strengthen a high-stress area of the sock (usually the heel, toe or ankle) with a durable yarn such as Nylon or Polypropylene.

Toe Pocket:

The toe pocket in a sock allows for better fit and comfort. The toe of the sock is formed based on the same principal of knitting, as is the heel of the sock. Upon completion of the toe a series of preparation stitches are knit for closing the toe. This is where the sock finishes knitting, leaving an opening at this end of the sock. This opening is either closed with a sewing machine, looping machine on the inside or the outside of the fabric, or it is closed on the knitting machine that does a very precise job of running an end of yarn through each of the opposing stitches on each side of the sock. This process of closing the toe on the machine is called looping or linking and was performed many years ago with a separate hand operation. Toes also tend to have more abrasion than the instep or sole of the sock and like the heel are often reinforced with an extra end of yarn and/or use abrasion resistant yarns.

Toe Seam or Toe Closure:

Socks are knit on circular machines. Generally, but not always, the knitting starts at the top of the leg and ends after the toe is formed. The open circular area where the toe is formed has historically been closed with a sewing machine or a looping machine. Today sock knitting machines are being built that are able to close the toe of the sock on the knitting machine. These toe closures are seamless and feel smooth.

True Heel and Toe Pocket:

See Fitted Heel and Toe.

True Rib Leg, Cuff, Top or Instep (1x1, 2x2, 3x1, 4x2, 5x2, etc.):

A vertical pattern of alternating raised and lowered stitches in the leg, cuff, top or instep of a sock. The numerals represent the number of stitches in the raised part of the rib by the number of stitches in the recessed part of the rib.

Turned Cuff:

The top of the sock is designed to be folded down when worn, usually just above the ankle.

Welt-Cuff:

The cuff is important to the appearance of a sock and its functionality. A welt-cuff top is a double layer of knit fabric at the top of the leg. A conventional cuff is knit with single layer of fabric from the top down. You can see where the knitting of the conventional cuff starts since there is a short tail of yarn.

 
Yarns

2-Ply, 3-Ply, or 4-Ply Yarn:

When 2 or more ends or plies of single yarns are combined or twisted together to form a heavier yarn. A multi plied yarn with different colored ends is referred to as a marled yarn.

Core Yarn:

Yarn that is spun with its fibers wrapped around another end of yarn already spun.

Heathered Yarns:

Yarns that have various colored fibers blended together to give a soft tweed appearance.

Intimate Blend:

The combining of two or more types of fibers into a single end of yarn to achieve improved performance, certain styling or to meet a price point if one fiber is less expensive than the other.

Marl:

A multi-colored yarn in which component plies may be of different colors.

Ragg Wool:

A traditional outdoor, marled wool yarn, usually in a natural or brown twist color.

Ragg Yarn:

Customarily a reference to a relatively heavy yarn that originated in Norway in either a 2-Ply, 3-Ply or 4-Ply construction with one end being Black or Brown and the others being natural.

Shrink Treated:

Processing wool fiber, yarn or wool fabric to prevent its shrinkage minimizing the chance for shrinkage in subsequent washings.

 
Knit Stitches, Cushioning and Design

Cushioned:

See Terry Cushioning.

Filet Stitch:

A method of achieving a pattern or texture, and at the same time improving breathability.

Jacquard:

The process of knitting an intricate pattern.

Jersey (Sole, Leg, Instep or Foot Bottom):

A lightweight non-ribbed, non-cushioned, plain knit fabric.

Knit Fabric:

A series of interconnected loops. There are various configurations of these interconnected loops. The simplest and most ordinary is a flat knit fabric called jersey.

Links-Links, or Links Stitching:

Selectively knitting stitches to be raised or recessed in order to create a decorative patterned fabric.

Mesh or Mesh Pique:

Filet stitches forming a fabric to facilitate the evaporation of moisture as well as to create a textured appearance.

Ottoman Flex-Stitch:

A pattern that utilizes pearl stitching to create a flexible textured fabric.

Sandwich Plaited:

The method of knitting that places the softer or more fashionable fabrics to both the inside and the outside of the binder yarn. Sandwich plaiting yields a thicker, more plush fabric.

Terry Cushioning:

Knitting all (fully cushioned) or part of a sock (foot or sole only) with a secondary (terry) loop to create extra cushioning in the areas where the extra yarn loops are present.

Tuck-Stitch:

A knitted stitch where the loop formed has two instead of one end of yarn to form it. This stitch increases the bulk and stretch of fabric.

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